We took some time off a while back for a short but well needed break at the coast. Driving through Tsavo and beyond Voi, we were shocked at how dry everything was. We’d heard that many animals were dying in the park and it was not hard to believe when you saw how little grass there was beside the road.
The road to Mombasa
A few places we saw dik dik congregating under trees right beside the road where they might find a few remaining blades of green grass from a long forgotten shower. Usually you see only one or two dik dik, but this time we saw many under certain trees. At one we counted over 20 of the small antelope, all standing together under the shade of a scraggily tree right beside the road, oblivious to the passing lorries. I’ve have never heard of dik dik congregating together in such numbers.
No grass without rain
At the coast we stayed at a place which has been made into a conservancy. The local village had expressed their desire to save the remaining marine life in order to attract tourists. That was the intention in theory. However, the practice was very different. You see very little if any attempt to save the what is left from destruction.
Each morning we watched as local fishermen went out on the reef to collect anything they could find to feed their families. With so many going out all the time, it’s hard to imagine that anything might survive!
Each morning we watched as local fishermen went out on the reef to collect anything they could find to feed their families. With so many going out all the time, it’s hard to imagine that anything might survive!
Shells for sale in Malindi
Can anything be left in the ocean?
Can anything be left in the ocean?
We watched as they proudly pulled a beautiful manta ray onto the beach and then proceeded to butcher it. Many in the village probably ate well that night. However, it is sad to see such a beautiful fish being killed. Much will have to change if there is any hope for the community based conservancy!
Manta Ray to feed the village
Even the head is prepared for the cooking pot
The reef too is a real disappointment. Long gone are all the colours I remember seeing in my youth! Back then everything was red, yellow, blue, green! Everything was so alive. Now you have to struggle to find anything which is still alive, besides sea urchins.
Little life left on the reefs of Kenya
Have things truly changed so much? Or do I have it wrong in memory? Now everything is dead. It’s like walking through a cemetery, all the pieces of dead and bleached coral lying about your feet. A real tragedy.
On the way back home we stopped off for a short stop under some thorn trees which struggled to provide the minimum of shade. I was shocked at the size of the thorns! You sure wouldn't want to drive over those.
On the way back home we stopped off for a short stop under some thorn trees which struggled to provide the minimum of shade. I was shocked at the size of the thorns! You sure wouldn't want to drive over those.
Thorns the size of nails