Saturday, March 28, 2009

Kenya on Fire

Last Sunday we saw smoke billowing from Mount Longonot. The news was filled with worry about all the animals which would be burned to death because they cannot escape the flames. How tragic! Apparently at least 70,000 acres had burned in Kenya by Monday, including many fields of maize almost ready for harvest. When we drove to Nairobi on Monday there was little smoke coming from the crater though the one half of the mountain was black from the fires. By evening though the winds had fanned the flames back to life and smoke was once again pouring from the crater.


Mount Longonot, Fire Damage

The fires are still not out. Yesterday the winds roared the fire back to life. Smoke was pouring from the Longonot volcano as though it had just erupted.


Smoke Billowing from Mount Longonot
(From the shores of the drying lake at Sopa Lodge)

We can also see many other fires on the other side of the lake. It looks as though Eburru is completely on fire. The fires are not like those in other countries as we don’t have such big trees here to burn. But still, with the drought, the country cannot afford to lose the few trees left or the little remaining grass when the animals are in such desperate need for food.


The Hills Around Lake Naivasha on Fire
(Eburro on the right with smoke rising all over)

Today there are many clouds in the sky so perhaps the rains will arrive soon. What a blessing that would be!

Monday, March 23, 2009

Lake Naivasha Drying Up

It is so unbearably hot at the moment. Some days it looks like storm clouds are approaching and other days there isn’t a cloud to be found. Everybody is hoping and praying for rain, but so far…nothing. We have only had two good rains since before Christmas (each about 13mm rainfall). The wind whips up the particles and makes it hard to breath, and if you’re very unlucky, you might get caught in a dust devil as it sweeps through town. Everything is gritty and smells of dust.

Dust Devil in Karagita

Trying to avoid the Dust in Naivasha Town

Meanwhile countless fires dot the hills around the lake as the Maasai desperately try to bring on the rains by sending smoke into the air. Even Mount Longonot was burning over the weekend. The fire there was so large it almost looked like a volcanic eruption. But so far these rain making rituals too have been unsuccessful. The smoke has only mixed with the dust in the air to create some very colourful sunsets.

Sunset over Lake Naivasha

The Maasai are struggling a lot with the drought. Traditionally they always have many more animals than the land can healthily sustain (animals are their bank accounts). This system is a recipe for disaster when the rains fail. What grass there is quickly turns to dust under the trample of many hoofs.

A Maasai friend visited us from Suswa the other day. He has thirty cows – had thirty cows. Two weeks ago they lost five and last week five more died. The ones remaining are just barely hanging on. They have to go to Mai Mahiu to buy hay which runs at over 1,000/ Ksh per bale at the moment. Who can afford that?!

Lake Naivasha is also lower than we’ve ever seen it before. And each day it appears to be getting smaller as mud flats appear where once there was water.

The Developing Crescent Island Causeway

If things continue, the hippos will really struggle. As it is they have to now walk quite a ways from the water for grazing.

Hippo Footprints to the Lake

Some believed the rains were on their way and tilled their soil and planted the seed. But the rain did not come. Now the seeds are left for the insects to feed on. Where will money be found for more seed?

God, please, send us rain!

Friday, March 20, 2009

Sickness and Culture Clash

One of our students was away for the last few days. Turns out her daughter was unwell and had been in the local hospital.

“Malaria,” I asked? That’s by far the most common illness in Naivasha – even though there isn’t any malaria in this area (or very little). We don’t have the right species of mosquitoes living here which carries the malaria parasite. But that doesn’t stop the doctors from diagnosing everybody who comes to see them with malaria. All they need to have is a hint of a fever: malaria! Sometimes they don’t even have to have that and they leave the hospital with medicine for … malaria.

And if it isn’t malaria then it’s typhoid.

But in this case the little girl had neither. She had a white tongue and pneumonia according to the doctors. The mother was told the white tongue was because she has allergies.

Allergies. That’s another one like malaria. Parents bring their children to the school and half of them warn us about the child’s allergies. They’re allergic to beans, to meat (unusual, that one, in a country where “nyama choma,” roasted meat, is a luxury), to milk, to rice, to cabbage, to tea. I don’t quite understand it. What seems to happen is the child gets sick, goes to the local hospital, doctor looks at child then decides it is suffering from one of three things: malaria, typhoid, or allergies.


“Matumbo” (stomach) – when you can’t afford “Nyama Choma”

Sometimes being told you are allergic to a particular food can be quite useful! Don’t like beans? Can’t eat them; allergies, you know. Imagine what frustration this caused when we were preparing meals during youth camps. You never knew what to give or how to deal with people’s dislikes. Do you dare tell them what you think about the doctor’s advice?

But back to the little baby girl. It turns out that the child had not been feeling well so the grandmother had advised that the girl should go to the local “mganga” (the local herbalist) and have her uvula cut out. The uvula is the small piece of skin hanging down in the back of the throat. They go and after a snip with the scissors, it’s gone. That’ll cure whatever’s ailing you, at least according to the old Kikuyu customs.

The Hippo’s Uvula
(From “Little Polar Bear” by Hans de Beer)

No wonder the child is sick! But when you try and explain how pointless – and even dangerous – this surgery actually is, you just get this blank stare back. I knew this was a common practice in the Kenya of a bygone era. It surprised me to hear that it was still being done!

There is no point trying to tell people information that contradicts what the people in white coats have told them in the hospital. Or, as it turns out, what some herbalist claims will work.

The incident reminds me of the missionary in South America who wanted to prove to people in his local community that colds are the result of viruses and bacteria, not demons. He got out his microscope, prepared the slide, and showed them the bacteria in the sputum specimen. But he wasn’t expecting their response! They looked at his evidence, then recoiled and exclaimed in surprise, “Now we know what demons look like!”

We’ve heard some amazing things about what causes illness! Parents tell us at the school that their child should not drink juice. They should not drink cold water either. Why? Because these things cause colds. Children have become sick because they have climbed mango trees. That is where malaria comes from! I guess that’s not all that different from what the early settlers used to believe, that the yellow acacia trees around the lake caused malaria. After all, whenever people camped under them they suddenly came down with fevers, hence their common name, the “fever tree”.

Giraffe amongst the yellow “fever trees”

Sometimes these beliefs can be more dangerous, like when babies have their uvula cut out to stop illness. Another belief is that taking children outside causes pneumonia. Pneumonia is a big child killer in this country so parents fear it. If taking children outside will prevent it, then that’s just what they will do. The problem is that many people keep their homes very dark. If they have a window, they put curtains over it. Babies therefore spend much of their time in dark rooms and subsequently don’t get enough sunlight.

Surely that is one explanation for why we see so much rickets in this community! So their attempt to protect their children from one illness – pneumonia – leaves the child with another – rickets. How can such misconceptions be corrected, particularly when people in white coats encourage them?

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Naivasha Tensions High Once Again

Memories of last year’s post election violence came back to haunt us again today when the Mungiki (an outlawed sect from the Kikuyu tribe) decided to hold the town of Naivasha at ransom with their threats. They had announced that they were going to hold protests and had warned the matatu (taxi) drivers to stay off the roads. The matatu drivers are always obedient to such calls because they don’t want to lose their vehicles. Matatus are often attacked and burned in times of unrest.



The first we heard of the situation was a call from friends wondering how the situation was in Naivasha town. They’d had a report from the American embassy warning people about the possibility of unrest. It surprised me as we hadn’t heard a thing. All the matatus had been pulled off the road. Nobody was able to get to Nairobi or back.



As the morning progressed we started hearing more and more reports that the tension in town was increasing. There was a high police visibility in town. They were clearly taking the threat seriously.



We had to go to a meeting past the village of Karagita on South Lake road. That’s when we saw the first signs of a threat. There were many young men on the road and they had set a number of tyres on fire. That made it impossible for us to drive on the road so we had to make our own way on the dirt track that ran alongside the main road. On the one side were all the youth, on the other the riot police. Someone came up and said that it would be okay for us to drive through. But as we drove through the mass of humanity the police must have detected a threat and they suddenly charged the young men with their riot sticks at the ready. For a moment we feared we’d get caught in the middle, but we put our foot down and managed to get out of there. We were worried about the return journey but by then someone had removed the burning tyres and the police had left. Crowds of young men were just milling around by the road.




In town nobody was making any money today. All the shops were closed, the kiosks along the side of the road were empty, and there were no taxis waiting for passengers. The normal bustle in town was missing. People were about but I noticed you only heard Kikuyu being spoken. It was strange to see Naivasha so empty. Even the main taxi stand for passengers heading to Nairobi was devoid of activity. There was just a large lorry standing there filled with riot police waiting in case they were needed.



Downtown Naivasha without the taxis


In the morning the tension in the town was palpable. Parents were ringing us up and asking what we were doing about the children in the school. They worried about what would happen if the situation suddenly blew up. We were worried as well since we have to drive through areas of Naivasha which were particularly hard hit during the post election violence last year. If something happens while you’re in those areas, things could become very dangerous.




A police friend contacted us and advised us to get the children home earlier. The police had been on high alert all day. The situation was particularly difficult in the morning but there was a risk that things could blow up again in the evening. We therefore started to take some of the children home who live the furthest from school. Other schools had also excused their children early so that they could get home quickly while things were calm. I drove along in the school van just in case there was trouble but the neighbourhoods were quiet.



Local water boy with his donkeys in Site, Naivasha


It is hard to imagine that one group can have such an impact on the country. How many people will struggle because they were unable to go to work today, because the matatus were not driving, because the shops were all closed? The only people who were doing a brisk trade were the piki-piki (motorcycle) taxis. The donkey drivers were also still out and about, providing water to their customers.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Old Man's Bride

Two young Maasai girls from Kajiado came to see us today. We thought they were interested in doing one of the vocational programs we offer. But the purpose of their visit was very different. They were both 14 years of age and had just finished elementary school. They brought their school reports with them and we were quite impressed. They were able to speak English well and had good grades, ranging from a plain C to a B+. Although that sounds average, so many of the people we see have much lower grades. A teacher came looking for a job today, for example, whose highest grade was a D, with an average of D-!


It turns out the girls were looking for someone to sponsor them so that they could go to secondary school. Both came from large families, one with six siblings and the other with eight. It was therefore impossible for their parents to send all of the children to school. Education is free in Kenya – theoretically. Primary education has been free for quite some time and secondary education was made free in 2008. However, free does not really mean free. The parents may no longer have to pay school fees, but they have to pay for books, for upkeep of the school, for school supplies, etc. One of our workers was even told he had to provide the school desks for both of his children. Surely that shouldn’t be too difficult for him, the headmaster reasoned, considering that he was a carpenter.


Our visitors were desperate. Both needed to find sponsorship if they wanted to avoid the arrange marriages their parents had sorted for them. Marriage, often to much older men and sometimes as the second or third wife, would at least bring the bride price to the family. This is the old Maasai custom so the girls had no say in their future. The only thing they could do to prevent it was to go to secondary school. Yet for that they needed money.


One girl’s father had come along to plead her case. I explained to him that we were unable to give them money. I tried to encourage him to do what he could for his daughter. She clearly was cleaver enough to go far, given the opportunity. I hoped I had persuaded the father that he should find a way to let his daughter continue her education. The drought had killed many of their animals and left them strapped for cash. They faced other hardships. Surely there was a way!


But I fear it is not to be. As they left I said I would like them to come back in three years time and share with me how things worked out. The father responded that he would let me know before then – he’d send me an invitation to their wedding. How can you help people like that? Sometimes you can help one. But what about the rest? What a tragedy!